DIY BMW 2002 clutch pedal linkage

Yes, that stupid little lollipop linkage made of the world’s weakest pot metal mysteriously snapped on Uber’s clutch pedal. As far as I can tell, I must have knocked the clutch pedal a bit sideways while welding up the driver side floorboard/rocker panel in preparation for Vintage at the Vineyards and sheared the threaded piece right off.

And, unfortunately, a replacement part doesn’t seem to actually exist unless you buy a new clutch master cylinder with which the linkage is included.

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Penetrating oils comparison

Just posting up a copy of an e-mail that has been circulating around the web recently. I have no idea if this is an actual study or internet lore. This is more for my reference so it’s easier to find, but I hope someone else gets some use out of it too.

The subject came up today while moving an engine for a buddy. His friend was trying to remove a stuck steering knuckle on an old wagon chassis. Then later today this e-mail popped up on a 2002 list I’m on. I mis-quoted this e-mail today and suggested a mixture of hydraulic oil and kerosene for the wagon. I imagine it would probably do a decent job of unsticking rusty bits.

*The April 2007 “Machinist’s Workshop” magazine comparison

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with
the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
“scientifically rusted” environment. *

Penetrating oil ….. Average load*

None ………… ……… 516 pounds
WD-40 ………… …… 238 pounds
PB Blaster ………… . 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ….. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ………… 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix….53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50 – 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.*

*Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all
now use it with equally good results. Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is
about as good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price. *

*Your experience may vary, etc., etc.*